A fried squid sandwich in a city with no coastline. Madrid’s weirdest, most beloved lunch. Here’s where it’s done right.

The three-course chickpea stew that stops the city on cold days. Here’s where Madrileños go when they want the real thing —…

Sunday 1pm in La Latina is Madrid at its most Madrid. Here are the bars Madrileños crawl, in order, before a long…

San Miguel is a tourist arcade. San Fernando is where Lavapiés eats. The difference tells you everything about Madrid right now.

Yes, San Ginés is iconic. No, it’s not the only place. Here are the churrerías Madrileños actually rotate through — including one…

Madrid’s most elegant neighborhood has a market most tourists miss. Here’s how to eat oysters, jamón and tortilla for less than dinner…

Madrid doesn’t sleep, but most kitchens do close by midnight. Here’s where to eat properly at 11pm, midnight, 1am, 2am — without…