Mercado de la Paz: Eating Well in Barrio de Salamanca

Madrid’s most elegant neighborhood has a market most tourists miss. Here’s how to eat oysters, jamón and tortilla for less than dinner downtown.

·

Barrio de Salamanca is where the money is. Serrano, Velázquez, Ortega y Gasset — Madrid’s chicest addresses. But in the middle of it sits Mercado de la Paz, a working market with some of the best eating in the city, at prices that don’t match the postal code.

The hitters

Casa Dani

The tortilla. The tortilla. Multiple awards, runny center, crust barely there, onion caramelized. Order half a wedge with a caña at the counter. €5. The best tortilla in Madrid, most days.

Ostrería

Fresh oysters by the piece. Galician cockles. A glass of albariño. Lunch that feels like a vacation.

Carnicería Cecilio

For take-home. Aged steak, Iberian pork, the kind of cuts you take back to an Airbnb and don’t ruin.

La Cantina de Frontón

Basque tavern tucked inside the market. Anchovies, txakoli, pintxos, standing room only. Lunch-only.

The schedule

Monday-Saturday, 9am-3pm and (some stalls) 5pm-8pm. Closed Sundays. Tuesday-Thursday lunch is ideal — calmer than Friday, same quality.

The route

  1. Casa Dani: tortilla + caña (€5)
  2. Ostrería: three oysters + albariño (€12)
  3. La Cantina de Frontón: two pintxos + txakoli (€10)

Full lunch, three stalls, under €30. In Barrio de Salamanca. Where the equivalent restaurant meal runs €80+.

After

Walk off lunch on Calle Serrano. Or duck into the Museo Lázaro Galdiano (five blocks away, mostly empty, extraordinary). Or grab a coffee at the Nolita café next door.


Share this story