There are more arguments about paella than about almost any other dish in Spain. Seafood or no seafood? Onion or not? Rosemary? Snails? Every family in Valencia has the definitive version, and every version is slightly different from the last. This one is as close to the original as a recipe can get: rabbit, chicken, fresh green beans, garrofón beans, saffron, and rice cooked over fire until the bottom layer turns golden and crisp.

That bottom layer — the socarrat — is the goal. It’s what separates a real paella from a rice dish that happens to be in a round pan.

Ingredients (serves 4)

• 400g bomba or senia rice
• 500g chicken thighs and drumsticks, bone-in
• 400g rabbit, cut into pieces
• 200g fresh green beans (bajoqueta), trimmed and halved
• 100g garrofón beans (or large butter beans if unavailable)
• 1 large ripe tomato, grated
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp sweet pimentón (Spanish paprika)
• Large pinch of saffron threads, steeped in 50ml warm water
• 1.2 litres good chicken stock, hot
• 100ml olive oil
• Salt
• Lemon wedges to serve

Method

1. Build the base. Heat olive oil in a 40cm paella pan over medium-high heat. Season the chicken and rabbit generously. Fry until deep golden on all sides — 12 to 15 minutes. Don’t rush this. Move the meat to the edges.

2. Make the sofregit. In the centre of the pan, add the green beans and fry for 3 minutes. Push aside, add the garlic and fry 30 seconds, then add the grated tomato. Cook until the tomato has reduced and darkened, about 5 minutes. Add the pimentón, stir once, and immediately add the saffron water.

3. Add stock and beans. Pour in the hot stock. Add the garrofón beans. Taste and adjust salt — the stock should be slightly saltier than you’d want to drink, as the rice will absorb it. Bring to a vigorous boil.

4. Add the rice. Sprinkle the rice evenly across the pan in a cross pattern, then distribute evenly. Do not stir again. Cook on high heat for 10 minutes, then reduce to medium-low for 8 minutes more.

5. Make the socarrat. In the final 2 minutes, increase heat to high and listen carefully. You’ll hear a faint crackling. Smell the bottom. When it smells slightly toasted — not burnt — remove from heat.

6. Rest and serve. Cover with newspaper or a clean cloth and rest for 5 minutes. Serve directly from the pan with lemon wedges. No spoon. Use a flat spatula and scrape up from the bottom.

Notes

On the fire: Traditionally cooked over orange wood. A gas burner works well. Electric hobs make the socarrat harder to achieve but not impossible.

On the rice: Bomba absorbs more liquid than other varieties and holds its shape. Don’t substitute with risotto rice or long-grain.

On the stock: The quality of your stock is most of the dish. A good homemade chicken stock changes everything.