In Seville, the tapa is not a starter or a snack — it is the entire structure of a meal. You move between bars, eating one or two things at each, and the evening is the itinerary. The Triana neighbourhood across the river has the best traditional tapas bars. The Santa Cruz quarter has the atmosphere. The Alameda de Hércules has the new generation of natural wine bars and creative kitchens that are starting to put Seville on the international food map.
The essential Seville experiences: a glass of cold fino sherry with jamón and olives at noon in a tiled bar; salmorejo with a boiled egg and strips of jamón in any traditional restaurant; and a slow Friday lunch of pescaíto frito — battered and fried fresh fish — eaten standing outside a freiduría on the waterfront.