Feria is a full-sensory event — the colours, the music, the horses — but underneath it all is a week of very specific food rituals. Each time of day in a caseta has its own expected dish, and locals follow the pattern whether they realise it or not. If you know the rhythm, you eat better.

Midday: pescaíto frito

Feria actually starts in the evening, but by day the casetas open around 1 PM and the first order of business is fried fish. A mixed plate of adobo, boquerones, puntillitas (tiny squid) and acedías (baby sole), with lemon. Eaten standing at the bar, with a cold caña. This is brunch at Feria.

Afternoon: jamón and montaditos

Between 3 and 5 PM, when people drift between casetas saying hello and taking photos, the food gets smaller. Slivers of jamón ibérico on tiny pieces of bread. A plate of chorizo and manchego. Queso payoyo from the Sierra de Grazalema if the caseta takes itself seriously.

Evening: rabo de toro

From 8 PM onwards the real dinners start coming out. Rabo de toro (braised oxtail) is the Feria classic — slow-cooked in red wine, falling off the bone, served with fried potato slices. Cola de toro if the menu wants to be fancy about it.

Late night: croquetas and tortillitas

After midnight, when people are dancing Sevillanas and the rebujitos are taking effect, the food shrinks again. Ham croquettes, spinach croquettes, tortillitas de camarones (lace-thin shrimp fritters from Cádiz). These keep coming until the caseta closes, which could be 4 AM or later.

What to drink

Rebujito in a jug until 1 AM. After that, a cold Cruzcampo is acceptable. Sangría is for tourists. Coca-Cola is for children. Wine by the glass at Feria is a mistake.

Caseta etiquette

Most casetas are private — you need an invitation from a member. The public casetas (casetas municipales) serve exactly the same food without the membership politics. Try La Cruz Roja if it’s open to the public that year, or any caseta organised by a barrio association. They feed hundreds and the kitchens are excellent.