Granada is one of the last cities in Spain where ordering a drink automatically comes with a free tapa. Not a bowl of crisps — a real plate of food, rotating with each round, growing more substantial as the evening progresses. It is an ancient tradition that has disappeared almost everywhere else, and in Granada it remains completely intact.
The tapas bars around the cathedral and in the Realejo neighbourhood are the best starting points. El Trillo and Los Diamantes are the canonical addresses. The Albaicín quarter — the old Moorish neighbourhood on the hill facing the Alhambra — has restaurants serving North African-influenced dishes that reflect the city’s history: lamb with honey, cous cous, tea shops open until midnight.